Date: 5/20/2023
Section: Mile post 31.6 to 47.1
Distance: 15.8 Miles
Moving Time: 7:37 hrs
Elevation Gain: 4,796 ft
Song Stuck in Head: “I Think We’re Alone Now” - Tiffany
Click here for location
Day 4 started as all others had so far, with a 3 am alarm - though Amanda had replaced the eerie Stranger Things tone for a nicer “ascending chords” vibe which was slightly less jarring. We were up, fed and on the trail by 4 heading north towards Mt. Laguna. The path was annoyingly stony as we committed to a small early climb. We picked our way through the stones in the dark hoping to see another owl, but none materialized throughout the morning. We did stumble upon a small vole who seemed lost and totally unconcerned with our lording over him. After trying to help him for some time we gave up.
The trail maintained a fairly direct northerly path throughout the day making small gains and losses in elevation but never really changing dramatically. Eventually the sun started to come up but, for the first time since the beginning, was obscured by a small cloud front to the east of us. We rounded a ridge and passed by two occupied campsites as well as Don from Missoula in the middle of the trail looking for his cell phone. ”Is that Payden and Amanda?” We heard a German accented voice call out. It was Jannes. “Guten Morgen!” I called back. We stopped and chatted with Don for a while but kept moving as he frantically returned to searching for his phone.
The trail switchbacked up a ridge after the tent sites before heading due north. As we finished the climb we were passed by Jannes and then young Chris who stopped and chatted for a bit as it was our first time meeting. Both went on and the day began to light. We were surprised to see pine trees in the valley just below us. We hadn’t expected to see these kinds of trees for at least the first month into the trek but yet, here they were. We continued on and eventually descended a short distance into more pine trees, the wonderful smell enveloping us as we dove deeper. At this point, something else began to fall that we had not expected to see for a while - rain - which we soaked in, loving every cooling drop. Day hikers started popping up on the trail and the distant rumble of recreational vehicles could also be heard on roads that criss-crossed the trail.
At around 8 miles we came to a turn-off from the trail to Burnt Rancheria Campground and took it. At the turn-off a stash-box of goodies had been left by some trail angels. I eyed the rice krispies hungry but decided to move on, figuring there might be those more in need. The hike through the campground seemed to take forever, probably because I smelled bacon and desperately wanted some but eventually we dumped out onto the S1 and took a left almost immediately noting our destination - Pine House Tavern and Cafe. My heart dropped when I noticed the “Closed” sign on the front door but quickly dissipated when the proprietor came out to swap the sign for an “Open” one. Happily, Amanda and I went inside and noted a table already occupied by Young Chris, who we found out was from Lynwood, and Jannes. As we came they motioned us to sit and we happily took a seat.
The proprietor of the Pine House Tavern and Cafe was French and playing some fantastic tunes as we perused the menu. Amanda decided on French Toast and potatoes and I went for Pancakes and potatoes as well as decaf coffee - i am trying to quit coffee altogether on this trip but decided just the caffeine part would be fine to skip for this meal. Also following Chris and Jannes’s lead i ordered an Elysian Hazy IPA, ‘cause it was about lunch time for us. We sat and chatted while the food was prepared. As it arrived, Don showed up and sat as well as a younger guy named Andy from Orange County. The pancakes were insanely good. I know it's only been 4 days on trail but I was starving and the sweet deliciousness of pancakes as well as coffee and beer was intoxicating. Amanda and I probably put our meals down in under 10 minutes. After breakfast we paid and collectively decided to go down the road to the general store for some supplies. There we purchased two more instant meals as well as some snacks - i got some jerky and spicy peanuts and Amanda got some cheeze-its.
After we paid we made me more stop at the Mt. Laguna ranger station to use the restrooms and purchase some stickers and post cards before rejoining the PCT and heading north. Amanda also turned in our bear spray there as we really didn’t need it. We hiked through-out the afternoon. The path turned west, north of Mt. Laguna and passed over a number of small hills before we reached a trail junction. This was where our 4th day was supposed to end but we decided to continue on a bit further to reach Laguna Campground which was on of the few places that accommodated camping of any kind in the Laguna Recreation Area.
We walked in and picked out an empty site. I begrudgingly paid 32 dollars for it but we were both wrecked and ready to chill for the afternoon. We ate some of our snacks and i went to see about the showers, devastated to find they took quarters. I came back and Amanda, now recharged a bit, went off to find a camp host for quarters. After she left, John showed up and i invited him to stay the night. Amanda came back and flagged down a staff member in a golf cart who was able to change cash for quarters.
Just as th quarter exchange was going down i noted Nikola and another guy walking below. I walked down and invited them up as well. The second guy was named Joe and he was from Portland from which he had ridden his bike to reach the trail head in Campo. Amanda went off to take a shower and Joe, Nikola, John and I talked and laughed for a couple hours - Amanda joining after coming back from the showers.
After a while i went to take my own shower and then came back for dinner. We ate our Pad Thai, Joe had some tortillas with Colby Jack cheese, John had some beans and potatoes and Nikola had some cold ramen. We talked a bit more and then eventually turned in joking about waking everyone up in the morning.
