Date: 5/19/2023
Section: Mile post 20.0 to 31.6
Distance: 12.97 Miles
Moving Time: 6:34 hrs
Elevation Gain: 3,035 ft
Song Stuck in Head: “CUFF” - Beyonce
Click here for location
We started in the dark again, both really loving the cool California air that can only be found so early in the morning. At 3 am we were up and moving around, trying to not be so loud as to wake up Luba, one of our neighbors who had come in later in the evening the night before and set up next to us. At around 3:45 we were fully up and fed before backtracking a bit to the ranger station to make use of the bathroom.
From Lake Morena state park we headed north along the long dried-up shore of the Morena reservoir. The reservoir itself was actually doing quite well given the historic snowpack but its shores once went far up almost next to the campground - the same shores that we now walked along in the early morning hours. At that hour only a few dogs barked at us as we pulled our way up out of Lake Morena and into the surrounding area. The track initially went through some annoying cheat grass but eventually widened to a very walkable track. As we came over a rise we heard the familiar call of an owl and, looking up, noted a large silhouette outlined in the night sky. “The owls alone are worth getting up for!” I called ahead to Amanda.
From Lake Morena the trail climbed a bit before dropping down to a road which it then ran along for a mile. At the mile the trail turned due east and meandered through a flat grassy area for another few miles before we came to a full stream where I pulled off my boots and traded them for my “Earth Runner” sandals. At the other side I decided to leave them on as it was only half a mile to Grand Oaks horse camp. At the camp Amanda and I rested for a bit and ate some food before moving on. Right before we left John (Long Trail) caught up to us and chatted for a while
From the horse camp we crossed under I-8 and started on the main climb of the day. By this time the morning was in full swing and the day was starting to heat. The track continued on perfect grade slowly rising above the highway along a number of ridges. Amanda and I briefly stopped once more near a Manzanita tree to polish off the rest of the Chia-Snacks my mom had given us before we left and then continued on.
We climbed or another 2 hours and eventually crossed near Kitchen creek which offered some amazing swimming opportunities but decided the 200 foot descent wasn’t worth it given the hot and dusty afternoon. There would certainly be more swimming holes on this trip. From Kitchen Creek the trail crossed another road and then proceeded along a long ridge eventually coming to a more open basin with a small, treed canyon running through it. We had originally intended to go to Cibbets campground for the night having heard that the more optimally positioned campground in the canyon had no water but, upon arrival, we found a healthy stream and large oak trees for shade so we decided to stay the night.
We set up camp, contending with a constant swarm of black flies. I took a rinse bath in the creek which was difficult with only about 4 inches of water to work with. After we had cleaned up and had another snack we retreated from the flies to read in our tent. John eventually arrived and set up under an adjacent oak tree. Throughout the evening more hikers arrived including Nikola from Reno, Chris from California and Nick from outside of Toronto.
A number of backpacking styles is becoming apparent as we continue on this hike. One is the young-to-mid 20’s sprint style of hiking with a backpack that looks like something I would have taken to grade school growing up. Hyperlight tent, minimal sleeping pad, ultralight backpack without a top section or any major frame. These individuals are doing something like 20-30 miles a day to start and sporting pack weights under 15 pounds - trying to minimize time in camp, maximize time on trail and really owning the “dirtbag” style. Then there are the classic’s - not quite external frame packs but older internal frames with MSR conventional stoves or even more classic alcohol stoves. Lots of food, lots of equipment - prepared for all eventualities. The ages on the trail seem to break down to either under 30 or over 60, with a few exceptions and far more individuals than couples so far. All-in-all there seems to be a vast spectrum of experience levels on the trail, from first time backpackers to those with lots of experience on the trail.
Several more PCT hikers passed through in the evening. Don from Missoula and Jannes from Bavaria stopped to chat for a while and asked about a 3rd hiker named Chris (or Young Chris - to distinguish from old Chris) who we thought we had also seen come through. Both Don and Jannes decided to keep moving, citing some campground up the trail a little further. After a while we were happy to see Luba from Brooklyn arrive. We sat around fighting the flies together and trading cheese crisps for dried clementines. Eventually Amanda and I took our leave looking forward to an early morning start and having enjoyed another fabulous day on the trail.
Amanda stepping into the morning
Passing under Kumeyaay Highway
