8/1/2023
Section: Milepost 1918.6 to 1891.7
Total Trail Miles: 1047.6
Distance: 25.16 Miles
Moving Time: 09:10 hrs
Elevation Gain: 2292 ft
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Today, we ran into a bunch of old friends from the southern sections of California and we kicked ass on the mileage so, good day over all.
The stage today winds south from Charlton lake through the Willamette National Forest eventually passing Rosary Lake and pulpit Rock before coming to Willamette Pass. Just before the pass, the trail turns due west and crosses the road before tracing along the western edge of Odell Lake. Here, most PCT hikers take a 1.4 mile detour to Shelter Cove where there is a small resort and campground which is hiker friendly and serves pizza, burgers and amazing lemonade. From the resort an alternate route has become popular using the Whitefish Creek trail to Crescent Lake before (tomorrow) it rejoins the PCT at Windigo Pass.
Amanda and I woke at 5:30 and snoozed ‘till about 6. It had been a very still night and we had slept well. We got up, completed our chores and were on the trail by 7, quickly reconnecting with the PCT and headed south. We hiked quickly. This section is perfect and you can really cruise down it. No more lava rock, minimal blowdown, just soft loamy trail and green canopies for miles. We flew south saying high to all the NOBO’s coming up from northern CA and eventually reached the Maiden Peak saddle where we stopped for a quick snack, taking in gorgeous views south towards Crater Lake and down at the Rosary Lakes. We had some coconut meat chunks and I had a RXN bar before we began our descent.
As we approached Willamette pass I noticed two NOBO’s that looked very familiar. These were the Ontario girls, Eva and Kayla, that we had met near Deep Creek hot springs and we talked and caught up with them for some time. These encounters are always fun and usually involve recounting the highlights of the travels since we had disconnected and those on the trail ahead of the other people. They told us about Seid Valley and an alternate trail coming up after shelter cove. We talked for a while but they were attempting a 24 hour sprint to Elk Lake and had to keep moving. We said our goodbyes and went our separate ways.
A few minutes on put us down to Willamette pass. Being back here reminded me of the only other time I have been to this pass and that was about 17 years ago, taking my middle sister, Katie, on her first backpacking trip. I remember that trip because it was 14 degrees when we got out of the car, windy and there was about 2 feet of fresh powder on the trail. We had brought snowshoes on that trip, the same ones we used in the Sierra a month ago, but even still, we only managed to do about three quarters of a mile that day and didn’t get out of earshot of the highway. Katie froze to death the entire time - it’s a wonder she ever went outside again.
We crossed the road and went up a short climb. All the paths are marked with blue diamonds high up on the trees for snowshoeing. This is the same in many of the Oregon passes - they all make great snowshoeing areas. The trail climbed and we passed along a steep ledge. We reached a road and departed from the PCT, descending down a grade to a railroad crossing and eventually came to another road. We walked south down it, throwing our thumbs out for a hitch. Eventually, a VW van with a couple in the front pulled over and told us to get in. They were from Mexico and had just renovated the van for a trip up the west coast. They gave us a ride the rest of the way in.
Shelter Cove is a campground, marina and resort. We aimed for the resort, saying thank you to the couple for the ride and pulling our packs over to a PCT designated area. I set my solar panel up in the sun to charge, eyeing the very full outlets on the side of the building. As I came around I saw Amanda talking to a guy in a blue shirt. “Sean!” I yelled as I navigated the steps up to the deck. He turned and I gave him a big hug. We had contemplated skipping Shelter Cove altogether but now I was glad we had decided not to. Amanda and I ordered a pizza and lemonades and then went down to the table Sean was at to catch-up. We talked about all sorts of things, the Sierra, Northern California, Northern Oregon, etc. until I heard our number called. I got up, with the lemonades for refill, and retrieved the pizza and Amanda and I crushed it as Sean regaled us with all the characters he had met on the trail. Eventually through, Amanda and I had to keep moving. I went to refill waters as Amanda took care of our trash. We met back at the hiker area to get our things together. We said a final goodbye to Sean and that we would reach out to him when we were back in Northern California and made our way out of the Shelter Cove.
We did not hike back up the road to catch the PCT, instead deciding to take the alternate route to Crescent Lake that everyone was raving about. The alternate route left from the other side of the campground, crossed the railroad tracks and made its way back into the woods. As we were going back in a couple forestry workers were coming out with a huge crosscut saw. We thanked them for their work and they asked us where we were going. “Up Whitefish Creek Trail to Crescent lake,” I said. The guy replied “well, the last 4 miles should at least be clear for you.” We thanked them again and continued on. The trail climbed up and we ran into some blowdown. Crossing through one I got stung on the back of my calf. I didn’t see what did it but I got a nasty welt from whatever it was. Just as i was about to curse everyone who had suggested this route, the blowdown cleared and we sailed up into a beautiful area with lots of small lakes. We saw many PCT hikers coming down the trail, all excited to get to Shelter Cove. We crested at the lake section and descended down to Crescent lake. Our feet were really starting to dog as we came down the hill but we could make out fresh cuts where the forestry pair had been at work. Eventually the trail leveled out and we took a right on the horse trail. We walked this for about a mile and the mosquitos got bad. Eventually we bailed on the trail and took the road, still being hampered by the Dracula bugs.
We came to the Oldenberge Lake Trail and took a side trail into Spring camp. Sean had told us he camped here last night at the group site where a large family that had rented out the whole set of sites had welcomed him and a few others with beer and chips. Our welcome was warm enough, but involved a lot less beer and chips than I had been made to believe. We set-up in an empty site, happy to at least have bathrooms and a picnic table. We completed our nightly activities. I went down to the beach on Crescent lake for my yoga and clensing swim before coming back to the campsite. On the way back I was offered some Romane Lettuce so… that was at least something. Amanda and I fell asleep laughing about the leafy greens that night.
