6/28/2023
Section: Milepost 617.2 to 639.6
Distance: 20.33 Miles
Moving Time: 08:31 hrs
Elevation Gain: 3,981 ft
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Today was long but very rewarding because, finally after 600 miles, we got our first glimpse of the Sierra! Way off in the distance, but not so far as to seem forever away, we got stellar views of some snow capped peaks north into the Golden Trout Wilderness - so that was awesome!
Today’s stage was pretty much waterless except for one amazing cash about 2/3rds of the way through it. Honestly, if it weren’t for the trail angels keeping up the cache we stayed at last night and the intermediate one today, a hiker would have to walk from Landers Campground at mile 610 to McIver’s spring at mile 645 without water. 35 mile days are possible but i don’t know if you could carry enough water to get there and what a day it would be! The route today continues east under the watchful gaze of Mayan peak up a shallow valley and around the northern slopes of Pinion mountain. The landscape in the early parts of today is still very much desert as we pass through groves of beautiful Joshua trees and the path is like sand or kitty litter, very difficult and annoying to walk on. At mile 623 the trail crosses Dove spring road and turnes north, going up and down in elevation through several drainages until it makes a final climb up to Wyley’s knob. Here it sinks back down to meet road SC120 where the water cache is still in full swing - thank goodness. The last 3rd of the day is dedicated to a 1500 foot climb up and over Skinner’s peak on the back side of which one can finally view the Sierra before descending down the opposite side and onto a flat-ish plateau where we camped for the evening.
Amanda and I woke at 3:30. Actually we woke at 2:30 because a truck had come up the road and stopped which we thought was odd and concerning but around 3 am it seemed to leave so… maybe someone just coming back late from Taco Tuesday. We couldn’t really get back to sleep so we got up and packed our things up. We’ve kinda given up on hot breakfasts - it’s pretty time consuming and I don’t have the mental energy in the morning to do dishes so, we just eat fancy Fig Newton bars and get underway. At around 4:15 we were ready to start and on our way. I hate waking up in the early mornings but I love hiking in them. Something about being shrouded in the dark - you just worry about what’s right in front of you and that’s all. The darkness didn’t last for long though as a slow glow started lighting the eastern horizon. We crossed over a small road and continued climbing on the other side. As the sun started throwing more light everything was cast in beautiful shades of orange, pink and purple. I got some good videos of Amanda and the Joshua trees framed in the sunrise as it started to peak over the ridge ahead. We stopped shortly after for a second breakfast and…other morning routines, before continuing on.
Eventually the path delivered us to Dove Spring road and turned north, putting the rising sun on our right. The morning was cool but you could tell the heat was coming as we meandered into and out of little ravines. The trail crossed by an old mine with the old equipment rusting away. At mile 627 we started climbing on a consistently sandy path out from another forest service road in earnest towards Wyley’s Knob. The climb seemed to go on forever. In the distance we could see Push-pop making his way up the same grade in front of us. Around 11 we crested over “the knob” and started descending towards the water cache. The long winding trail seemed to descend forever but, the more I hike on this trail, the more it makes sense. The designers always tried to get from one high point of the next without giving up any more ground than necessary which sometimes translates to large traverses but never any more lost ground than is absolutely necessary. As we came down we passed a small stand of trees and said high to a couple. The guy seemed French and the woman seemed Japanese but they were tucked back under the tree and we kept moving.
The trail continued winding down while Amanda’s comments about how hungry she was continued winding up until suddenly, Amanda lept back from the step she had just taken. It took me a second to see it but, sure enough, coiled cup right on the left edge of the trail, a tan and reddish rattlesnake sat sunning itself. Amanda had gotten within 2 feet of it before noticing and it had not even rattled. In fact, the snake seemed completely unconcerned with our presence. Its head didn’t come up and it didn’t uncoil. We took a second to look for another path and rock hopped up on the right side to give the snake some space. We came down and still no movement until we started taking some pictures - not getting any closer to do so, to be clear - when suddenly, as if a timer had gone off in the snake's head, it calmly uncoiled and slithered off. No rattle, not really a care in the world. We watched it go, mesmerized, until it had disappeared all together. “Another sign the desert isn’t going away without a fight,” I said to Amanda “2 snakes in 2 days when we haven’t seen one since going up into Idylwild 2 weeks ago.” She grimmly nodded “Hope that is the last one.”
A few minutes later brought us down to the bottom of the hill and the waiting water cash, as well as Push Pop and Izzy sitting in the shade. We picked out our own shade and got to work eating. I picked up a foot and a half long pepperoni in Tehachapi, which Amanda is disgusted by, but have now eaten down to about 9 inches. It disgusts me too. I’ve had way better pepperoni on this trip but this is the one I am stuck with and, with some sharp cheddar cheese, it’s not bad. I also put down some more snack bars and peanut butter nature valley cookie sandwiches then I got to work developing a song to leave Philipp in the trail register. See, Philipp is 2 or 3 days behind us and, as our favorite German on the trail (sorry Charlie), we have been leaving him songs in the registers. Amanda came up with the 2 and I was responsible for the next one. The song below, sung to the tune of Time by Pink Floyd, is what I developed.
Trudging away the miles that make up a dull stage
Clamor and climb through the sand with a sense of rage
Hiking around on this subpar ground with a big frown
Waiting for Phillip to lead me to shade
I sincerely hope he is reading these. Other people are probably going to wonder about our obsession with this one German guy as well. Anyway, we finished our snack and song writing, said “see ya soon” to Push-pop and Izzy and went over to the very nice water cache to fill up. I took on 5 liters and Amanda took on 4 before, begrudgingly, we began the 1500 foot climb in the afternoon sun. I stopped a short distance beyond to write out my lyrics in the register.
Surprisingly, the climb went very fast. I followed Amanda as the elevation melted away and soon we crossed over the southeastern shoulder of Skinners Peak.
I am impressed how well and quickly our bodies have adapted to the daily punishment. Early on in this trip the climb we did today with 10 extra pounds of water during the hottest part of the day would have been grueling and brought our progress to a quick stop but today we just kind of arrived on top and looked around almost surprised that that was all. It’s a great feeling that is so subtle you almost don’t notice it - almost more the absence of fatigue that is expected than some new kind of feeling. We can do successive 20+ mile days now without too much trouble and that is really exciting… and also necessary down trail from Kennedy Meadows so - just in time.
Once on top we descended a short distance, then paused to take in the Sierra. I have enjoyed the desert. It has not been nearly as bad as I thought it would be temperature-wise and there have been no end of beautiful sunrises and fun little critters to see. The Regal Lizards have been my favorite, but seeing those mountains today put a big, stupid grin on my face. I have always loved the Sierra. They aren’t my home mountains anymore but they were for a long time and I have a considerable set of memories spanning the first 12 years of my life amongst them so, yea, I’m excited to be headed that way.
We walked on and another hour put us down into an expansive campground where I set out the ground tarp and we got to work making dinner. Tonight was mountain house Lasagna and it was delicious. Earlier in the season this campground would probably be pretty full but tonight we have it to ourselves. After dinner I do my yoga and some exercises before coming back to blow up the air mattress. We are cowboy camping tonight despite the awef flies. Hopefully they will go away when the sun goes down but, as for now, they are terrible. Another great day and one of the last few in the desert. Tomorrow is a mini town day and I am stoked to get some hot food not out of a bag!
