The next morning Amanda and I woke to the smell of fresh rain. After collecting all of our gear we headed down to the patio. Yovana saw us and had breakfast out and ready a little while later. We ate our breakfast looking out at the mountains above Choquequirao and the massive duck that kept making laps around our table. After breakfast Jovana introduced us to our driver, Abarristo, and his pony Marco. After introducing ourselves, Amanda and I consolidated our packs into a bag, which Abarristo arranged on Marco’s back and we headed off. Our destination for the day was Santa Rosa Camp. A 1300-meter deep canyon separates Cachora and Choquequirao where the Apurimac River has cut through the mountains. Our goal for day one was to descend to the base of the canyon and climb a short distance up the other side to a camp called Santa Rosa, a total distance of ~24 km (15 miles). The hike starts out from Casa de Salcantay along a road hemmed in by Cyprus trees leading north. Along the way we ran into many locals and livestock. Abarristo seemed to know everyone. A couple of kilometers in the road cuts west along the top of the canyon and there are excellent views out towards Choquequirao. Eventually we came to the entry point to the canyon and started a long descent to the river bed. I seriously lost count of the switchbacks at some point, completely gave up. Along the way keep an eye out for tarantulas on the trail – you might get a chance to see one scuttle back into its burrow as you round a corner.  After descending about 900 meters you will come upon one of the first camps on the way to Choquequirao, called Chiquisca. For those wanting to take a bit slower itinerary this might be a good option as it is only about 19 km into the trek. We stopped here for a quick snack before continuing forward into what was becoming an eternal spiral downward to the base of the canyon. At the bottom of the canyon is Playa Rosalinas, the second major camp area for those on their way to Choquequirao. Here there is a sturdy suspension bridge spanning the Apurimac River. Our little party continued across the river and started climbing up the other side all the while knowing that every step we had taken down that day would have to be reversed to get to our destination. Unfortunately, due to the nature of our itinerary we found ourselves in the middle of a hot, steep and dusty climb around the hottest part of the day. Several hours of climbing brought us into the 3rd and final destination for the day, Santa Rosa. Santa Rosa is a nice grassy camp area etched into the side of the canyon looking down on the Apurimac River at around 2200 meters. Amanda and I laid out our tent and started making dinner. There were two groups coming back from Choquequirao that night so we sat around a fire and talked with them. They gave us some pointers on what to go see and where to go in Peru beyond our current itinerary. After dinner and conversation Amanda and I headed back to the tent and slept well after logging a long day and lots of altitude.

Day 2: Santa Rosa to Choquequirao (Lunch/Dinner at Marampata)

Date: 11/28/15

Distance: 7.4 Miles

Elevation Gain/Loss: 1680/460 [Meters]

We woke to a cool morning in the Peruvian mountains with the sun just beginning to creep into the depths of the canyon. I made some Via and breakfast while Amanda started packing up the camp site. At around 7 am we started hiking, hoping to get up to the next camp, drop our belongings and continue on to Choquequirao. The beginning was slow. Our legs were tired from the previous day’s climb and the path led strait up out of the canyon. The climb from Santa Rosa to Marampata is approximately 1000 meters so an early start helps with the heat and maximizes your time in Choquequirao - if you are opting for a 3-day outing. After about 2 hours of climbing the trail leveled out and first signs of the village started to appear. As you arrive in Marampata there is a two-story building to the left of the road and just behind it are a series of terraced, grassy landings that are perfect for setting up a tent. At the time, this building was still in the process of being built. The place has a bathroom and is run by an older woman who lives in a small hut adjacent to the shed and bathroom. At the time we did not have to pay for use of the camping spot, but these things are always subject to change.

            Amanda and I hastily set up our rented tent and our daypacks. By that time it was around 10 am. We met up with Abarristo and started heading northwest along the path through Marampata towards Choquequirao. About an hour further we came upon the “visitor center” on the right side of the road. We checked in with them and paid a small entrance fee before continuing on. As we walked the road, the remains of terraced farms could be seen on the hillsides indicating that we were getting close. Around noon we passed a sign indicating we were arriving in Choquequirao and soon after we started seeing stacked stone buildings. The trail rises a bit more before breaking out onto a football sized pavilion with buildings on all sides.

The first thing I noticed about Choquequirao is how well preserved it is while still being very much authentic. The second was the total lack of people. Amanda and I stood in one of the greatest Incan sites in South America and instead of thousands of people and endlessly muttering tour groups there was total silence. Abarristo took us over to the corner of one of the buildings and pointed out a trench running under its western wall. “An aqueduct,” he explained in broken Spanish. Following the trench we saw it split and start to form a complex system of waterways connecting each of the buildings. From there, Abarristo lead us down the opposite side of the hill we had climbed to get to the central pavilion. On the other side we found a progression of terraced field plots cut into the side of a very steep hill. “White Llamas,” Abarristo said and beckoned for us to follow him down the hill. We walked about halfway down the hill before looking back up to see what he was talking about. Set into each terraced wall with white stones was the silhouette of a white Llama. In total there were around 25 as well as a white stone “zigzag” pattern on one of the higher terraces. Abarristo eventually led us all the way down to get a complete view of the terraces. If you make it to Choquequirao make sure you walk out to the terrace overview – it’s worth it to see the whole complex and get some pictures.

            We made our way back up through the terraces stopping to take some more pictures. As we neared the top of the hill again we turned left and headed north up above the main pavilion. At the top was another smaller complex of intertwined buildings that offered a good view looking south down on the way we had originally come up. We milled around here admiring the architecture and taking some more photos. From here we crossed south back across the pavilion to another similar sized complex on the south end of the site with good views both back on the Choquequirao and out onto the Vilcabamba Mountain Range. We spent some more time here eating a quick snack and then headed back to the pavilion. Amanda and I spent another hour or so randomly exploring the interconnected areas while Abbaristo took a nap near the entrance asking that we wake him when we were ready. After about an hour Amanda and I had gotten our fill and met back up with Abbaristo and started heading down to Marampata. In total we spent ~5 hrs. in Choquequirao and saw only 2 other people the entire time.

Two hours brought us back down to Marampata. As we descended I became aware of an increasing level of fatigue but wrote it off, figuring I probably hadn’t drank enough water that day. After arriving Amanda and I began preparing a meal of instant noodles and nuts. We ate and talked excitedly about the events of the day and how quiet it had all been. After eating, we cleaned up and started putting things away in preparation for an early departure the next morning. At that point I was absolutely exhausted and, as I started to pack up the stove my mouth suddenly started watering. I quickly sprinted to a bush at the side of the campsite and threw-up the entirety of my instant noodle into the bushes. The next 7 hours would make up what is, to this day, one of the longest nights of my life. At one point I remember waking up on the dirt floor of the one toilet bathroom near the campsite, my pants around my ankles and my headlamp casting light on the opposite wall of the shack. I only got up when my eyes caught the reflection of two points of light and the 8-legged shadow of a huge spider making its way along the floor towards the toilet. It is largely due to this experience that my greatest point of advise to fellow travelers now is to carry Ciprofloxacin. On the night of November 28, I could not keep any water in me. Whatever it was that got me flushed everything out to a point that I was becoming dangerously dehydrated very quickly. During one of the “lulls” in my stomach’s crusade against me I was able to get down the first dosage of Cipro and for the next hour my entire world revolved around keeping it down long enough to do it’s thing which, fortunately, I was able to do. We were 30-40 miles from a village and probably much farther from serious medical attention. Had it not been for this drug I really have no idea how I would have gotten back out. If you travel, and especially if you travel to the third world, make sure you have Cipro. It can save a trip and it can save your life. At around 3 am, I eventually passed out; my body finally calm enough to let me get some sleep.

Day 3: Marampata to Chiquisca

Date: 11/29/15

Distance: 4.5 Miles

Elevation Gain/Loss: 655/1625 [Meters]

In the morning I felt better. Amanda and I made a tentative breakfast and I took a second dosage of Cipro. Despite a settled stomach, I felt incredibly fatigued. We shouldered our daypacks and Abbaristo loaded up Marco before setting off. We slowly meandered down the switchbacks we had clamored up just the day before. The first few hours were cool but the sun soon came out and temperatures shot up quickly and only climbed as we descended into the canyon. A couple hours along we came through Santa Rosa stopping to buy some water, which I drank as much of as I could.

            From Santa Rosa we continued on down. Switch back after switch back melted away. Amanda consistently had to stop and wait for me to catch-up as I continued to fall behind. Another couple hours brought us to the floor of the canyon. Abbaristo was waiting there for us as we stopped to break with the proprietor of the bridge campground. They asked Amanda and I if I needed medical attention, as they did not feel confident that I could get back up the other side of the canyon. I told Abbaristo I thought I could do it and that we would only try for Chiquisca that day. This seemed to satisfy them both and, after about an hour of rest, we started climbing. If I was slow on the way down, I got really sluggish on the uphill. At one point I just started laughing at how ridiculously difficult everything had become. Every step seemed to take way more effort than it typically did and all of my motor functions were worthless. Chiquisca was only ~1500 feet above the canyon floor but it took us 4 hours to climb that distance and we eventually came into camp around 3 pm. As we arrived I found a nice sunny grass patch, grabbed my sleeping pad and passed out.

            At around 7 pm I awoke and made dinner with Amanda, happy to find my appetite had come back with a vengeance. After dinner, we sat and talked for a bit before confirming our start time with Abbaristo and climbing into the tent for the night.

Day 4: Chiquisca to Cachora

Date: 11/30/15 

Distance: 10.2 Miles

Elevation Gain/Loss: 2020/1034 [Meters]

On the 30th we awoke around 8 am and started to get our things together. By now, I was feeling much better – still a little fatigued but up to the challenge of todays climb. The climb from Chiquisca back to Cachora is ~1000 meters but today it was mercifully cool and damp. We started out around 9 am and steadily climbed out of the canyon, stopping at an occasional switchback to catch our breath. At around noon the trail leveled out and turned south indicating that we were now on a level approach to Cachora. A couple more hours brought us into site of the town and eventually back to Casa de Salcante. Once there we said farewell to Abbaristo and Marco and tipped Abbaristo around 25% for the trek to and tour of Choquequirao. Originally we were going to stay at Casa de Salcante one night, but since we were already one day late we decided to try and catch a taxi that day. We thanked Jan Willem van Delft and Yovana for all of their help and they secured a ride back up to the main road for us. Once there we milled around waiting for a bus to come by. After about an hour of waiting a large purple one came into view heading in the direction of Cusco. We waved it down and asked if it was going to Cusco, the driver confirmed and we established a price before boarding. Several more hours of winding roads brought us back into Cusco where we walked back to our hostel and stayed another couple nights.